At the lower voltages the filament is heating up but it is only emitting light in the IR region (and that is being absorbed by the glass), when it starts to get hotter you start to see it. A bulb only glows because the filament is hot. The relationship between voltage and light output is not linear. I can't figure it out why 10VDC is so dim. The bulbs in question are 25W tall bulbs they sell at home depot. Should I perhaps look into preamp tubes, like they use in guitar amps? I've got no vacuum tube experience, i just think it'd be neat. But, since arduino is digital, the vacuum tube would be acting like a relay, which has limited life. It's been, perhaps 10 years since I've messed with transistors, but it IS possible to choose a high-power transistor, and drive it with the output of the arduino, yeah?īeing all retro-looking in the first place, why not use a vacuum tube instead of a transistor, for the same effect. Obviously, I can't drive 3 lights with the arduino, so I was going to use a transistor driven by a digital out to "blink" the 120VAC to control brightness. Even if RMS is taken into account, I can't figure it out why 10VDC is so dim. I can't seem to work out why 10VDC barely lights the light, yet 2VAC (so says my fluke) lights it much brighter. What I want to do now is introduce some random flickering, and was going to do so with an arduino and some clever programming, such as adjusting the duty cycle of a digital out to control the brightness. Yep, it's pretty cool, but I have that dimmer turned way, way down, so it's only putting out about the same amount of light as a candle (<2VAC). I've recently finished a "Mad Scientists Lamp" ( ) that uses 3 25W incandescents and an off-the-shelf dimmer.
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